Hi all, Thanks for all that info, most interesting. It more or less does do what it states on the cover. Plenty of gear math and photo's of this and that on what ever. Then comes a design for cutter frame for wheels, not suitable for pinions and shots of a milling spindle which is. The first 60 pages are mostly on history. I don't expect to find much for home type construction. Odd as I just got the book out to rifle for any useful information. I visited the original makers some years ago - very happy chap but another story. He does shows shots of Thorton cutters and they do have the E on the end. That one is 5.8mm thick and has a 12.25mm rad. Wild gives the sizes in his wheel and pinion cutting book as well but for type 7 E so who knows. The final teeth shape.fly cutter can then be determined (if indeed it needs to be modified at all) Assemble these in a simple.ie flat type depth tool and check for fitness of action with the pallets. Wilding is indeed a bit sketchy with his info about escapement teeth/pallets and this is one of the reasons his books are unpopular with our members (Epping forest Horology Club) The usual working practice is to NOT buy any 'scape cutter but to make up a basic fly cutter and cut a 'scape wheel and pallet arm. Th escape wheel teeth should only be considered in conjunction with the pallet shape as the two are inextricably linked.Īll the info is shown in fig.85 on page 40 (the 'photocopied' later edition produced by Wilding himself) If this is typical of Wilding's design books sounds like a good reason to not buy one to me. Wheel and pinion cutting is mainly related to gearing and cutting them so I wouldn't personally suggest that one as I don't think it would get you out of the fix you are in. He does cover anchor recoil and graham dead beats very thoroughly. He disappoints for me somewhat as there are mentions of numerous types of escapements and he could give more design detail on some. I'm not a complete fan of Laurie Penman's book Practical Clock Escapements but he does cover anchor escapements pretty thoroughly. but 5.80 according to Richards: who also show the profileĪs no profile is given I suspect you would be better off buying a book that covers the design of this type of escapement and go through one with the same outside diameter and tooth count. Is there a decent photo of the 'scape wheel in the book ?ĮDIT. Hi Michael, its a number 7 thornton recoil cutter, regards David Which of the seven sizes of Recoil escape wheel cutter does JW specify for this clock ? JW's "Wheel and Pinion Cutting in Horology" is helpful too. If you know the tooth profile (and for the scape wheel it's going to be fairly simple) it's just a matter of making a fly cutter to its "negative". What is the tooth profile? I have made the count wheel (basically a ratchet) for my Woodward Gearless clock using a standard 60 degree dovetail cutter, so that may be a good approach. I have looked in other clock making books I have and they are different escapements but all dimensions are supplied. JW suggests Thornton who sell a cutter but its around £ 65.00 for one clock use so I was going to make my own. No drawings or measurements are in the book to help me make this hss cutter. Hi all, I am just about to grind a fly cutter tool to make the escape wheel for a John Wilding large wheel skeleton clock.
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